All About Pets

Dogs Bark - How to Stop a Dog From Barking

By Penelope Diamante

Have you ever tried to ask yourself what have you done to stop your dog from barking? Your dog may have attended obedience classes and you may have even taken time to provide your canine with home training. It may be time to consider obedience training classes.

The advantages of obedience training outweigh the time and effort that you invest in it, and it will solve your barking dog problem.

The ideal way to control barking is to allow your dog to bark when it is appropriate, but to discourage barking when it becomes a nuisance. Ideally you should train your canine to stop barking on your command.

This article describes the immediate solutions to manage the problem of barking dogs. There are many products on the market today to stop your dog from barking. Ultrasonic devices can be placed your house or yard, and when your dog barks, they emit ultrasonic sounds which are inaudible to people. Ultrasonic devices work on the principal of it is safe and humane to simply distract even the most relentless barker. These external systems may also be used to control your neighbors barking dogs.

You can also try collars that are designed to stop your dog from barking. Obviously a collar-based solution can only be used on your own pet. Your neighbor will probably not approve of you putting a collar on their canine.

Anyway the most effective collars are either citronella spray collars or electronic collars. Citronella collars emit spray when the dog barks. A number of dog owners have had measurable success with this type of bark collar, but it really depends on the individual dog.

If your dog refuses to stop barking and barks at virtually everything, then you are probably going to experience more success with an electronic bark collar. Barking dogs can be a severe nuisance for you and your neighbors, so any investment in solving the problem will help improve the quality of life for the humans who have to listen to endless barking.

Solving a barking dog problem requires patience. Remember that dogs communicate by barking, so insisting that your dog not bark may be like asking people not to talk. Even still there is definitely a difference between necessary and unnecessary barking. The key is that your dog learns to distinguish one from another.

Sometimes dogs bark for attention so if you respond by giving the dog attention, you are only training your dog to bark at inappropriate times.

Read more about how I solved my barking dog problem at dogloversonly.com: http://www.dogloversonly.com/blog/dog_barking.html

How to Train a Cat to Use the Toilet

By L. Zackarian

Did you ever wonder if it is really possible to train your cat to use the toilet instead of a litter box? Did you ever think how wonderful it would be to never have to clean a dirty, smelly litter box ever again? Well, it certainly is possible to do and if you learn how to train a cat to use the toilet, you will never have to clean that litter box again!

There are many different ways to train your cat to use the toilet and oddly enough which method you use will depend on what breed of cat you own. Each breed responds differently to training techniques and there are so many options to try when you are really serious about eliminating the litter box. I can remember all the times I changed my cats stinky litter box, thinking to myself, there has got to be a better way. Not to mention that kitty litter costs a small fortune. I hated every time I had to spend money on it, and I thought to myself, I can't believe I have to spend so much money on something that my cat is going to go to the bathroom on.

After a couple years of spending my money on cat litter, I decided to search for some ideas on how to train a cat to use the toilet. The internet is the perfect place to find information on just about any subject so I did some research, visited many websites, and found lots of information from other people on what they think is the best way to approach this. I tried several suggestions that I found along the way, but to my disappointment, nothing worked. My cats did not want to hear it, and I was beginning to think I was doomed to a life of cleaning dirty litter boxes.

I continued my search, and one day I stumbled upon a website and bought an ebook on how to train a cat to use the human toilet. I figured the price is very reasonable with a money back guarantee, and all the free information got me no results at all. I took a chance and to my surprise, this book is filled with tons of helpful and effective training methods. I learned that it really depends on what breed of cat it is as to what method works the best. I would have never known that otherwise.

There are many different methods to try when teaching your cat to use the toilet. One of them is to slowly start moving the litter box closer and closer to the toilet until it is right next to it. Then, once your cat gets used to the new location you can make a container that will fit inside the rim of the toilet and put cat litter in it and introduce it to your cat, don't forget to remove the litter box at this point, but I do recommend you have a litter box in another area of your home so if your cat does not take to the new bathroom situation, it will not go on the floor. The cat should recognize the cat litter as the place to go to the bathroom. It may not happen overnight but with persistence and patience, your cat should learn to use it. Once you have established that your cat is using the toilet, then you can try removing the cat litter all together. If your cat stops using the toilet, you may have to put the litter back for a while longer but eventually you should be able to remove it.

I am still in the process of teaching my cats the techniques in this book, as with anything else, it does take time and persistence. But, I have achieved some success, and was thrilled the first time my cat actually used the toilet! I still keep the litter box around though because I don't want any "accidents" on my floor while my cats are in training, but this is the most helpful information I have found.

Please visit my blog at http://pet-products-reviews.blogspot.com for more information and teach your cat how to use the toilet.

Atrial Fibrillation in Cats

By Frank Will

Atrial fibrillation in cats can and does occur, and when it does, in most all cases it will remain a permanent condition. In the severe cases, it can be fatal, and in most of the cases, your cat will also be in what is referred to as CHF, or congestive heart failure. Atrial fibrillation is actually an electrical disturbance that is marked by very rapid contractions of your cats atrial heart muscle. This than causes an irregular heart beat as the electrical activity that is usually very well coordinated, is suddenly lost.

The actual definition of atrial fibrillation in cats are abnormal heart rhythms in which the atria, which the upper chamber of your pets heart, become out of sync with the ventricles, which are the lower chambers. When atrial fibrillation occurs, the atrium actually quivers or wiggles chaotically, and as a result the ventricles start to beat irregularly. If the condition is considered atrial flutter, the atria will beat regularly but it will be faster than the ventricles.

Both of these situations are very dangerous for your cat, as they dramatically reduce the proper functioning of their heart. Atrial fibrillation can occur as a stand alone problem, but in most cases is a combination of a heart muscle disease or a chronic heart valve disease. What makes this condition so very dangerous is that it can rarely be cured or corrected back to a normal state of operation. It is estimated that over 90 percent of all the cases can not be corrected.

Symptoms:

The symptoms of atrial fibrillation in cats will not be real specific, and as a result, can be very difficult to detect. The first symptom will be an unwillingness of your cat to attempt any type of exercise. This should not be treated lightly and assumed that your cat has become lazy. Most all cats can be very slow and methodical at times, but in this case, it will develop into a situation where it will be all of the time. But they are not being lazy; their heart will not allow them to do much exercise.

If you suspect this, the first thing you should do is to check your cat heartbeat. If it is atrial fibrillation, their heartbeat will be both rapid as well as chaotic. The normal pulse rate, or heartbeat of your cat, should be between 130 and 240 beats per minute. Checking their pulse, however, can be somewhat challenging. The first method is to run you hands along the inside of your cats thighs at the groin until you can feel the femoral artery. If you can not locate the artery, there is another method to try.

Press your hands on your cats ribcage directly over their heart. Do this while your cat is standing, and you will feel their pulse directly below their elbow. With either method, count the number of beats in a fifteen second cycle, and than multiply it by four. Do it three to four times to make sure it is accurate. If they indeed have atrial fibrillation, it will be much more rapid. You may also be able to feel the actual chaotic rhythm as well.

The final symptom will be congestive heart failure. This occurs as the result of fluid accumulation in your cats chest, abdomen, or both.

Treatments:

Treatments for atrial fibrillation in cats will all depend on the actual underlying heart condition. The major objectives of any type of treatment will be to do three things; control the congestive heart failure, control the heart rate, and to provide home therapy to slow the progression of the condition. In most all cases, you can never reverse or completely stop it, but you can certainly slow it down considerably. The initial treatment for your cat may require hospitalization that will involve both drugs and oxygen. If your cat is in congestive heart failure, the fluid will have to be drained.

The first form of treatment is usually with a diuretic drug that will prevent your cats kidneys from retaining an excessive amount of sodium and water. It will be very important that your cat does not retain water, and this is the main reason this is the first form of treatment. However, this can be a very tricky process; if it is too high, it may cause kidney failure or lead to an excessive loss of potassium. Potassium is absolutely critical for you cat to survive.

For this reason, a potassium supplement will also be used. Liquid forms are usually advised as they absorb much quicker and much more effectively in your cats system. Most all cats will also be given an angiotensin which acts as a very powerful controlling agent in regards to controlling arterial pressure. It is also very effective at preventing sodium or salt retention. However, it is also very tentative, as it can also cause kidney failure, but it can also dramatically lower your cats blood pressure.

Beta-blockers may also be used to control your cats heart rate as well as controlling and protecting the heart muscles. But before these are used, ask for a second opinion; they are extremely dangerous if the dosage is too high. As a result, your veterinarian will usually start out with very small doses and work up slowly until it starts to produce results.

However, by far and away the safest and most effective treatment will be an immediate modification of your cats diet. Fish oil supplements are recommended in most all cases. There is mounting evidence that tuna and salmon eaten twice a week has had a huge impact of atrial fibrillation in humans. Raw tuna and salmon fed to cats can be dangerous, but cat foods that contain them as well as fish oil supplements are extremely effective. Vitamin E and the coenzyme Q10 are also very effective in treating atrial fibrillation in cats.

Coenzyme Q10 helps to ignite the cellular power stations in your cat and this powerful antioxidant is found in concentrated levels in your cats heart muscles. Because of this, in supplement form it may help to reinforce your cats natural ability to control the condition.

Summary:

Atrial fibrillation in cats is a very dangerous situation that may never be reversed or even stopped. But it can be controlled if you watch your cat and catch it as early as you can. If your cat suddenly becomes lazy, there is a reason. Check their pulse when you spot these initial symptoms and than immediately notify your veterinarian. Next, modify your cats diet as soon as possible. However, reinforcing your pet diet with these very simple supplements may prevent it from ever occurring.

I am an avid lover of pets and my wife and I have had several pets throughout our years. We are especially fond of dogs, and we have a 12 year old Dalmatian (our 3rd) and a "mutt" that we rescued when someone threw him away to die in a vacant field. He found us, nearly starved to death, and weighed about 2 pounds. After severe bouts of mange and severe dehydration, and over 1,000.00 in veterinarian bills, we saved the little guys life, and he is one of the best, if not the best, dogs we have ever had and today is a muscular, fit, and firm 70 pound best friend.

After finishing my MBA, which at middle age was not easy, I decided to keep the research work ethics that I acquired, and devote about two hours each night in understanding the health benefits of supplementation for both humans and pets and how they might strengthen our, as well as our pets, immune system in a pre-emptive approach to health rather than a reactionary approach. Both of my daughters are avid cat lovers, and asked me to help them with health concerns and challenges with their cats.

I am not a veterinarian nor claim to be, just a lover of pets that loves to research and pass on some knowledge that might be helpful, or at least stimulating to the thought process. Several of the articles that I have written can be found on my website;

Liquid Vitamins & Minerals for Humans & Pets
http://www.liquid-vitamins-minerals-humans-pets.com/

Best Female Cat Names - Got a Girl Cat to Name?

By Anne Sterck

Female cat names and female kitten names are not hard to find but a good female cat name can be elusive!

Elusive? With all those lists of names on the web?

They are, especially if you don't want your cat to have the same name as every other cat on the block.

If you're looking for that particular, memorable or special name, it's time to put your thinking cap on.

Some of the best female cat names come with a lovely story attached. Like the black cat who got her special name, Friday, because she was brought home from the cat rescue center on Friday the 13th! Lucky for her.

What's behind the best female cat names?

Has your new kitten or cat got a story to tell? Could that story provide the inspiration for her special, unique cat name? If so, go for it!

No story? No worries.

How about a name that describes her beautiful eyes or her fur? Cocoa for a tortoiseshell or Calico cat, Honey if she's red or ginger, or Bluebell for the feline with blue eyes to die for.

Want cool, unique or cute kitten names? Chanel after the perfume for the luxurious cat, Silk and Lightning for the unique sophisticated feline, and why not Dinky, Bambi or Bubbles for the cutest of kittens?

Still no inspiration? Lets mine the beautiful world of crystals and precious stones. Could you imagine your beautiful cream-colored cat with a name like Pearl? Or Amber if she's ginger, and Sapphire if - you guessed it - it's those big beautiful blue eyes again.

Time for tea, anyone?

I did much of the research on my female cat names in the UK, a great source for names. Something British... Cadbury, perhaps, or Miss Marple from Agatha Christie's famous detective stories.

You can be extra-creative and check out Wiccan cat names based on nature or something a bit spooky. Why not Hallowe'en?

Or something to do with trees - like Cypress, Holly or Hazel, or from within the magical plant kingdom you could consider Poppy, Rose, Gentian or Valerian.

If none of these work for you, there's no reason to give up - not at all. You could go for something popular: enter Miss Kitty, Millie and Sophie, all beautiful girl cat names for your special kitty.

Good luck in your quest. May the inspirational female cat naming muse light your way!

Anne Sterck, 'The Siamese Cat Lady', has never been without a cat or two or six! She is presently owned by Cumin, the cutest and naughtiest Siamese cat in France and a collection of cat waifs and strays that decided to come in from the cold.

Obviously she couldn't include all the best female cat names here. For more help with cat naming ideas and inspiration, please go to http://www.loving-siamese-cats.com/female-cat-names.html.

Leopard Gecko Care - Why Gut Loading is a Must

By Jo S. Morris

If you're thinking about getting one of these great little critters as a pet, then one of the most important leopard gecko care concepts you must learn about is 'gut loading.' In a nutshell, gut loading is the practice of giving the insects nutritious food before feeding them to your leopard gecko, effectively using them as shells to transport that food into your leo's belly. Without gut loading, feeder insects such as crickets and mealworms are simply not nutritious enough foods to keep your pet in good health.

Note that 'not nutritious enough' a lot of the time means 'too high in phosphorous and too low in calcium.' Commonly used feeder insects usually have these characteristics, which is a problem, because calcium is essential if these geckos are to avoid metabolic bone disease. Research show that gut loading is a very effective way of ensuring that feeder insects carry the necessary amount of calcium into the bodies of reptiles that they are fed to.

In terms of what to use as gut load, a calcium fortified chicken egg laying mash fed to the feeder insects 24-48 hours prior to them going into your leo's terrarium is effective. However if you are raising the feeder insects yourself, an even better option is to raise them on high calcium food such as turnip greens, dandelions, or cactus powder. You can even make a gel comprised of agar and cactus powder that works both as water and as food.

If you've read this far you might be wondering how leopard geckos are able to get the nutrients they need in the wild without anyone to carefully gut load their food. The answer is firstly that in the wild their diet is much more varied. In the wild these geckos eat pretty much anything they can overpower, including all types of insects and even small rodents. In captivity by contrast, their diet is likely to be limited to just a few staples like the two big favorites, crickets and mealworms.

The other reason wild leopard geckos are able to get the nutrients they need is that in the wild, the insects and rodents that they eat will in turn have had a much more varied diet than those bred by humans as reptile food.

If you own a leo, then learning about how to properly gut load feeder insects in order to replace the much more varied diet that it would get in the wild is a really important responsibility in leopard gecko care that you have. Establish a good routine for gut loading your leo's feeder insects early on, and you'll be doing the best you can to ensure that your leopard gecko leads a long and healthy life.

Jo Morris is a leopard gecko enthusiast and author of the book " Leopard Gecko Secrets Revealed ". To learn more about leopard gecko care, visit http://www.leopardgeckocenter.com.

Signs of Worms in Dogs

By Frank Will

Signs of worms in dogs can range from mild to severe, depending on the actual worm infestation, but in some cases your dog may show no initial signs at all. But eventually, any type of a worm infection will start to show you symptoms and the key to helping your dog as quickly as you can is in understanding these signs.

There are some general signs that you can watch for that will show you that something is starting to go wrong. If your dog starts to lose weight, their coat begins to become very scruffy, or they start to vomit repeatedly, these all may be signs that your dog has a worm infection. However, the most telling as well as most chilling sign that they have become infected by worms, is coughing.

Coughing by your dog may occur on rare occasions, but the key is rare. Coughing is simply not normal in your dog, and when they cough it should stop you cold in your tracks as it is that serious.

Types of worms:

There are arguably six different types of worms and each one will show you a different set of signs.

They include Pin Worms, Round Worms, Hook Worms, Tape Worms, and Whip Worms. But the last, Heart Worms, is by far and away the most serious threat to your dog and they will also show you the most serious signs.

Pin worms:

Pin worms are small white worms that are generally spread to dogs either by contaminated food or water that has been infested. These parasites will migrate into your dogs stomach where they than exit out through there anus. They are very common in dogs and can cause very intense itching, especially around the anus area, but are generally considered quite harmless.

Signs:

The most common sign that your dog has this type of worm will be when they start to scratch their butt area or drag it across the floor to relieve the itching.

Round worms:

Round worms are almost the exact opposite of pin worms, in that they can be very large, and in some cases can grow up to 10 to 12 centimeters. They also multiply very rapidly and can be found in extremely high number in your pet. Adult dogs can become infested with roundworms by infected water or food, or by the vomit or feces from another infected dog. As disgusting as it sounds, all owners know that dogs will eat almost anything, including vomit and feces in some situations.

Puppies can become infected by contracting this parasite during pregnancy or by drinking the milk from their infected mother. If one of the puppies becomes infected, the entire litter will become infected in most all cases. This particular form of worm is extremely sticky and is similar to spaghetti in both substance as well as appearance, and can be transmitted easily between dogs and humans.

Signs:

The signs of worms with this parasite will be a very sudden development of colic in puppies, which is a persistent crying. The next sign is with the nursing mother, as she may not be able to produce milk as long as needed. Adult dogs will show signs of abdominal swelling, followed by sudden bouts of vomiting. They will also have very abnormal feces, and these worms will be visible to the naked eye. If this worm migrates into the lungs, your dog will also start to cough.

Tape worms:

Tape worms are perhaps the easiest worm to detect in your dog as they are very long and flat and have numerous segments to them. You can spot them in your dogs stool as they will look like rice particles. They may also stick to your dogs anus, again appearing like small pieces of rich. They can be transmitted by fleas, but the most common cause of infestation with this type of worm is by contaminated grain in commercial dog food.

Signs:

The signs with this type of worm will also be a very itching butt area, but they can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, and if severe enough, anemia. They are very similar to pin worms but slightly more severe.

Hook worms:

Hook worms get their name from their major characteristic, hooking or attaching to your dogs intestine walls and they can be fatal to young dogs. However, they are in most cases, lethal in puppies. Infestation with this type of worm is caused by a larval penetration to their skin. Puppies are infected by their mother.

Signs:

The signs of with this parasite are the rapid loss of nutrients that they cause, and this will result in a very rapid development of anemia as they are literally sucking your dogs blood form their body. Your dog will very quickly start to appear unhealthy as a result, and their linings of the nostrils, lips, and ears will turn very pale. They will also start to show a very dark and tarry stool. If the hookworm migrates to the lungs, your dog will also start coughing. If they are not immediately treated at this point, it can cause sudden death in your dog.

Whip worms:

Whip worms are long and very thin worms that are transmitted by infested matter, or by another infected dog. These worms can lay in wait for several months to several years and still be very contagious.

Signs:

The first sign that you will see that your dog is affected with this type of worm is severe intestinal stress. It usually start out with gas, and than will quickly develop into diarrhea. They can also cause severe dehydration very rapidly in your dog.

Heart worms:

Heart worms by all rights, should be in a category by them selves, as they are that serious. They are transmitted by mosquitoes, and are by far and away the most lethal of all the worms to your dog. It only takes a couple of these worms to attack your dog, and they very quickly can destroy your pets heart muscles. What makes them so lethal and sudden, is that in the early stages they show absolutely no symptoms at all.

Signs:

The signs of this demon of worms start with a very sudden development of a hacking cough, and you will know it when you hear it as it will sound like a smokers cough. This is than rapidly followed by a shortness of breath that will lead to your dog fainting. By now they have become very weak as they will have a very high blood pressure as congestive heart failure has set in. If these signs do develop, it is the beginning of the end for your dog.

Summary:

Signs of worms in dogs can be very mild to extreme in the worst of cases, especially if heart worms are involved. The good news is that there are several very effective treatments for any type of worms. It will be absolutely critical that you understand the signs of worm infections, but more critical to use preventive measures and use heart worm medications throughout their entire lifetime.

I am an avid lover of pets and my wife and I have had several pets throughout our years. We are especially fond of dogs, and we have a 12 year old Dalmatian (our 3rd) and a "mutt" that we rescued when someone threw him away to die in a vacant field. He found us, nearly starved to death, and weighed about 2 pounds. After severe bouts of mange and severe dehydration, and over 1,000.00 in veterinarian bills, we saved the little guys life, and he is one of the best, if not the best, dogs we have ever had and today is a muscular, fit, and firm 70 pound best friend.

After finishing my MBA, which at middle age was not easy, I decided to keep the research work ethics that I acquired, and devote about two hours each night in understanding the health benefits of supplementation for both humans and pets and how they might strengthen our, as well as our pets, immune system in a pre-emptive approach to health rather than a reactionary approach. Both of my daughters are avid cat lovers, and asked me to help them with health concerns and challenges with their cats. I am not a veterinarian nor claim to be, just a lover of pets that loves to research and pass on some knowledge that might be helpful, or at least stimulating to the thought process. Several of the articles that I have written can be found on my website; Liquid Vitamins & Minerals for Humans & Pets http://www.liquid-vitamins-minerals-humans-pets.com.

Why is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam?

By Kenny Leones

When it comes to our dogs, most of us will stop at nothing to ensure that they are well-taken cared of; comfortable and even pampered beyond compare. After all, man's best friend only deserves the best, right? This is why, any sign of discomfort; illness or general unhappiness; will have us scrambling to the vet for answers. One particular situation that may have us scared stiff relates to the question "Why is my dog coughing up white foam?"

Most dogs have undergone such an episode that directly asks the question Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam? Now, before we get into a state of panic, there are several reasons why our dogs may be vomiting what looks like white or even yellowish foam.

WHY DO DOGS COUGH UP WHITE FOAM?

There are quite a few explanations pertaining to our inquiry of Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam? One of these is that they may have ingested something that's not right for them - or is not compatible with their stomachs. An upset stomach can sometimes result in dogs vomiting some sort of whitish substance, usually foamy and thick.

Another reason behind Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam is what is generally called a bilious vomiting syndrome. When there is too much bile in the dog's tummy, they release it through vomiting. Too much bile can also result in the dog feeling nauseated hence, the vomiting.

This syndrome usually occurs after a good night's sleep. Usually, if our dogs simply vomit this bile and has no other indications of other illnesses, then it is highly likely that the dog has the bilious vomiting syndrome.

WHAT WE CAN DO

On the other hand, if we are asking Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam and has been feeling restless for several days; is not eating and experiencing other symptom, then it is time to take the dog to our trusted vet. A visit to the vet can alleviate our fears and also give the proper medication to our dogs if they have more than just a bilious vomiting syndrome.

Since the reason behind Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam is this syndrome, what we can do is give the dog a small snack in the middle of the night just so they won't wake up hungry which may cause the syndrome to occur. We can find out more about this condition via the internet and more importantly through our trusted vet. Both measures can give us helpful tips and the necessary emergency care in case our dogs start to vomit white foam again.

Time to Clean the Fish Tank? Here Are Some Tips

By Greg Trefter

So, you have an aquarium that is in need of a good spring cleaning, but you don't know exactly how to go about it? Should you simply scrap the mess and start over? Should you try cleaning is without emptying it first? The answer is that tearing it down and completely starting over will remove the bacterial colonies produced in the aquarium that are beneficial to helping eliminate wastes. Unless the tank is extremely terrible, starting over should not be your first option; it should be a last resort.

You will need to have an algae scraper or pad, a razor blade (plastic for an acrylic tank), some bleach, a water siphon, a bucket, some lime remover and glass cleaner made specifically for aquariums, a filter media and a filter brush, some old bath towels and paper towels.

You should start with the glass, move to the decorations such as rocks and plants and then clean the gravel. You should then move on to the outside of the glass and the fixtures and finish by cleaning or replacing the filter.

Give the glass a thorough cleaning on the inside using the algae pad. You can find a large selection of scrapers and pads for algae; from a scrubber with a long handle to magnetic scrubs. The small magnetic scrubs are a personal favorite, but just about any algae pad will do the job. You must purchase the algae pads at a pet store as opposed to buying one from the house wares department of your local store. They look just about the same, but the house wares pads can contain harmful chemicals or soap which could be lethal to fish. If the algae is really stubborn you will need to scrape it with the razor blade or plastic blade.

After you have thoroughly cleaned the glass, remove the decorations, artificial plants and rocks that have a significant build-up of algae on them. Do not use detergents or soaps when cleaning them. Although you might think you've completely removed the soap, there could and most probably would still be some residue. You can scrub them with the algae scrubber or scrape them clean, but for really tough problems you can use a 10% solution of bleach. Soak them for about 15 minutes and then scrub off the remaining residue. Rinse them well in running water and allow them to dry fully. Make sure the bucket you use has never held any type of detergent or soap. Vacuum the gravel while the other decorations are out of the tank.

Use a water siphon to vacuum away any debris in the gravel. You can choose from a variety of siphons and all of them work in very much the same manner. If you want to eliminate the need for a bucket, try the Python. There are also adapters that will allow you to filter the siphoned water back into the tank.

Be careful when using glass and lime cleaners as they may contain ammonia which is toxic to the fish. A standard lime cleaner is even worse. Use vinegar whenever possible or cleaners that have been specifically designed for aquarium cleaning. Always rinse thoroughly and leave nothing to chance.

If you want to clean the filter, you must wait a couple of weeks to do it. From the cleaning you already completed you have disturbed the beneficial algae and bacteria colonies on the decorations, gravel and plants. You haven't completely destroyed the eco system because the filter will still contain some of these beneficial bacteria. Simply allow the filter to run for a couple of weeks to restore the balance. Then you can clean it. If the filter is older than three weeks, replace it.

5 Betta Fish Facts For the Successful Owner

By T L Gallamore

Betta fish are becoming a growing popular pet in America. With their vibrant colors, uniquely shaped fins, and interactive personalities, it isn't much of a surprise why. Welcome, inquisitive Betta owner, to five fun Betta fish facts. This article should serve as a useful mini guide you raising a thriving pet.

1) Personality: interaction is one of the most commonly overlooked aspects to owning a Betta fish. You may not know, but this species is particularly renowned for the fact that each individual fish can develop its own personality.

Some let you pet them, some jump up for food, most will flip out when they see you going for the food container, others can be trained to do small tricks such as jumping through a ring, others all of the above.

2) Bettas need lots of space: Despite the inhumane keeping of these fish in small flower vases, they are like any other creature and that they need space to exercise and thrive. My advice is to buy the largest fish tank or container that your budget and living conditions will allow for. A single Betta fish seems to do especially well if given a 5 to 10 gallon tank to live in.

3) What to feed your Betta: When it comes to Betta fish facts regarding food you've got a few options. First up are live foods, these are generally tasty and your Betta will gobble them down, but really should only be given as a snack. This is because live foods are high in protein and fats, but low in other nutrients essential to a balanced diet. I recommend using pellets for two reasons. First of all, they offer an all-around healthy meal. Second, they are easy to measure out because each pellet is around the same size.

4) How much to feed: When it comes to feeding time, most companies put out some different "Betta fish facts" than the ones you should really be following. In the interest of selling as many bottles of food as possible, most companies are going to give you recommendations that are actually overfeeding your pet. The best scene schedule I've found is to give two pellets in the morning and two at night.

5) Sick Betta fish: Because they are very susceptible to imbalances in water chemical levels and parasite borne illnesses, is important to know the warning signs of a sick fish. The most common symptoms involve discoloration, streets around the gills, white spots on the fins or body, and extreme lethargy.

When becoming a Betta fish owner is important to have all the information you need to succeed.

3 Essential Fish Tank Supplies That You Need

By Helen Silva

If you have decided that you need to have a brand-new fish tank in your home, you are going to soon realize that you will need a vast amounts of supplies. These are things that you simply need to have the keep your aquarium running at optimal levels. Here are a few suggestions on what you should have in order to make your fish, and your life, as easy as possible.

People just starting out you not realize that owning an aquarium can be quite a chore.

People will go to the store thinking that they will simply pick up one of those cute little bowls, throw their fish and it, and that they are done. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The first supplies that you will need for your brand-new fish tank are lighting systems, water pumps, air pumps, water filters, and an assortment of cleaning equipment. Depending upon the size and shape of the tank issue have purchased, you may need to buy additional cleaning utilities to get the job done right.

The size of your fish tank is also an important consideration. More than likely, you will want to put this on top of a stand. There are many varieties that are available including those that are made of metal and wood. Plastic is usually not the material of choice because of the enormous amount of weight that tanks can typically hold due to the water.

When choosing fish, whether they are saltwater or freshwater, you need to also have a fish tank hood on top of this water vessel. The reason is that some of the fish that you purchase will like to jump. Until they are conditioned properly by having a lid over their container, they may jump out onto the floor and die.

One of the most important things that you can purchase is a quality water filter and pump. This will make sure that the waste that the fish create on a regular basis is filtered out and that they are not constantly inundated with their own sewage. It is also a good idea to use a water testing kit to make sure that the ionization level within your tank is at optimal levels.

Finally, once all of your aquatic buddies are in the water, you will want to turn on the tank light and see what you are new and amazing fish container now displays. Aquariums are one of the most beautiful additions that anyone can make to their home, however, without the right fish tank supplies, it may become problematic.

What Are the Important Supplements For Leopard Geckos?

By Jo S. Morris

Leopard geckos have a few needs that are totally non-negotiable: they need a properly temperature-regulated environment with both a warm and a cooler area; they need appropriate food, and they need the right supplements specifically for leopard geckos. All three are critical to the health, happiness and longevity of your leopard, but in this article it is the latter of the three - supplements - that is up for discussion.

So what are the important supplements for leopard geckos in captivity? Here is what they need:

Calcium

Leopard geckos in the wild eat a varied diet of insects and rodents, and those insects and rodents will themselves have eaten a varied diet up until they are caught and eaten. That adds up to a pretty nutritious diet for the wild leo, and one of its key features is a good ratio of calcium to phosphorus. That's very important, as a diet with a ratio of calcium to phosphorus that is weighted in favor of phosphorus will result in not enough calcium being absorbed. This puts them at risk of metabolic bone disease. Unfortunately, most common feeder insects fed to captive leos have a bad ratio of calcium to phosphorus, and that's why a supplement is required.

The best way to feed your leopard a calcium supplement is to gut load its feeder insects with a high-calcium diet. Blend together a sauce made from any of: dandelion greens; watercress; collard greens; mustard greens, and/or endive. Be sure to include both the juice and the pulp. Feed this to the feeder insects during the period 24-48 hours prior to feeding them to your leopard.

Vitamin D3

Leopard geckos in the wild, for obvious reasons, get all the sun (and hence all the vitamin D3) they need. Kept indoors as a pet however, they don't get any sun at all, and that's why a vitamin D3 supplement is needed. A vitamin D3 supplement can be given as part of a multivitamin supplement (see below for how to administer this).

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is another dietary essential for these geckos, and again yours won't get enough of it unless you specifically take steps to ensure that it gets a supplement. An insufficiency of vitamin A can cause serious eye problems, so it's definitely not one to skip.

It's possible to supplement a leopard gecko's diet with vitamin A directly but a better alternative is to supplement it with beta carotene, which it can metabolize into vitamin A.

You won't find it difficult to find a specially formulated reptile multivitamin powder containing both beta carotene and vitamin D3. While a calcium supplement should be given to your leo via gut loading each and every mealtime, the multivitamin should be given only about once every two weeks. The easiest way to give it is to dust it onto feeder insects by putting them in a plastic bag with the powder and giving the bag a shake.

Knowing the right supplements for leopard geckos and giving them the appropriate food and correct temperature will mean healthy and happy leopards to care for.

How to Avoid Leopard Gecko Health Issues

By Jo S. Morris

It'd be pretty irresponsible to own a pet, no matter what kind, and not take it to a vet when it's required. Sometimes things get serious enough that you need expert help, and that's where vets come in. Still, wouldn't you rather avoid leopard gecko health issues as much as possible by doing what you can before they arise?

Here's how to do what you can to avoid health problems with your leo:

Think seriously about sand

Do you know how many hits you get on Google if you search for "leopard gecko" and "impaction"? You get 22,600 - that represents a lot of people concerned about this all-too-common health problem.

If you didn't already know, sand impaction is where a leopard gecko eats sand and it gets stuck in their digestive system. This causes pain, bloating, and eventually (if the leo is unable to pass the sand and doesn't receive treatment) death.

So how do you avoid your leo developing sand impaction? Here is the formula:

- If possible, avoid putting sand in your leo's habitat altogether. There are plenty of other substrates to choose from, such as slate tile or coconut husk.

- If you put sand in your leo's tank, use only a fine 'play sand' (this is a screened and washed sand with a fine, rounded grain).

- Don't put juvenile leopard geckos on a sand substrate - wait until they are at least 5-6 months old.

- Supply plenty of dietary calcium. Leos are more prone to eating when they feel calcium deficient, so provide them with a bowl of calcium powder, gut load feeder insects with food containing calcium, dust feeder insects with more calcium powder, and consider switching to a feeder insect that naturally contains more calcium (such as silkworms).

Choose food carefully

Strange as it may sound, obesity is another common health issue with leopard geckos.

To avoid obesity problems, don't feed your adult leo a diet comprised only of worms, as these tend to be fatty compared with crickets and roaches. Instead, alternate between feeder insect types every 3-6 months.

Also, don't feed your leo more than 3 times per week, and when you feed it don't give it more feeder insects than it can eat in 15 minutes.

Ensure there's adequate heat

Leopard geckos need a high temperature of around 90 degrees Fahrenheit in their environment. This is necessary for all kinds of reasons, but health-wise there are two important ones: to aid digestion, and to maintain a properly-functioning immune system.

Remember that you must carefully and accurately measure the heat in your leo's tank so that you can be sure that it's the correct temperature. Use an infrared temperature gun (search the web for "temp gun")) to precisely measure substrate surface temperatures - mercury thermometers may not give you an accurate reading unless they are positioned exactly.

A word of advice here: The vet you choose must have knowledge of reptile care in order to be able to advise on any leopard gecko health issues.

Creating a Natural Leopard Geckos Habitat

By Jo S. Morris

When you're trying to give a leopard gecko a home in captivity where it'll be happy and healthy, the starting point should of course always be to think about its habitat in the wild. In the wild, the leopard geckos habitat is the desert areas of Afghanistan, India and Pakistan.

Does this mean that every leopard gecko terrarium should contain sand? Well, no. A common mistake that people make is to hear that these geckos live in desert regions in the wild and to think "desert = sand

It's hard to shake the visual association of the word 'desert' with 'endless shifting sand dunes,' but the fact is that only about 20% of the areas of the world that are classified as deserts are covered in sand. 'Desert' means 'dry,' but it does not necessarily mean 'sandy,' and the desert areas where leopard geckos live in Asia are characterized more by rocks and grasses than by sand.

This is probably the major reason why sand remains a popular substrate for the bottom of the leopard geckos terrariums, despite its known health risks. Then again, it's not the only reason: many leo owners would probably still prefer to use a sand substrate even if they knew it wasn't a natural environment just because it looks good. It's hard not to have a little sympathy with this position, because you could argue that it doesn't matter whether a pet's environment in captivity is natural, so long as the pet is happy living in it. After all, what's 'natural' about human beings living in cities?

However, for those who want to approximate a natural environment for their leo without sacrificing looks, there are two other options worthy of consideration:

1. Slate Tile

A slate tile in the bottom of you leo's terrarium looks good, is very easy to clean, and approximates a rocky habitat in the wild pretty well. If you want to, buy a selection of smaller tiles in different colors and patterns and mix-n-match them to create a more interesting visual. Add fake rock features and plants for an even more authentic look.

2. The 'Full Natural'

For those with the time and the will, the five-star habitat option for leopard gecko owners is something that truly replicates the leo's home in the wild. Start with a large tank, at least 20 gallons (ideally 40 gallons) for one leopard gecko - this is necessary, as creating a natural environment means more of the floor space is covered, meaning less space for your leo to run around on. Put a one-inch layer of a mixture of equal parts peat moss, potting soil and play sand into the bottom of the tank as drainage for the plants. Then add some plants (you'll be able to find lists of plants which are reptile-safe on the internet). Next put in a layer of sand/soil mix, then add rocks, logs, and finally fill any gaps with more play sand.

(NB: If you haven't heard of it before, 'play sand' is a washed sand that's produced for children's sandpits. Because it's clean and very fine it greatly reduces risks associated with geckos ingesting it, particularly when it's used sparingly.)

Either one of these two suggestions is going to give your leopard geckos habitat one that is worthy of this amazing lizard.

Iguanas Habitat - Can You Do it Right Now?

By Barry Stevens

Do you think you are ready to own a pet iguana? Well if you can provide a great home for your pet, then you are in luck. An Iguanas habitat is one of the most important aspects in regards to raising a healthy and thriving iguana. Your iguana's home must have three things.

First, you must provide your iguana with correct lighting. Second, you must give your iguana some "play" time. And lastly you must have a clean home. Read below to get more in depth with these three factors.

Proper lighting and heating plays such a huge role in your iguana's health. You will need to find lights that provide adequate UVA lighting. This is necessary because your iguana's skin will not be healthy without this lighting. Further, place the lighting at the top of your cage or home to get the most coverage possible. You can find these lights at any of your local pet stores.

Your iguana needs "play" time. What this means is that you need to provide your iguana with climbing apparatuses and hiding places. This is how your iguana gets its exercise and how it can hide from the outside world. I recommend using rocks and shrubbery.

You MUST keep your iguana's home clean! Your iguana will get sick if you do not pick up after it. Clean all of its dropping and dispose of old food and water.

If you follow these three key steps, you will see a healthy pet iguana! Remember that you must provide a great cage, so go out and do it!

What Do Iguanas Eat? Things You Need to Know

By Barry Stevens

Are you thinking of getting a pet iguana? Well before you actually go to the pet store and buy one of these loving creatures, you first must know one important fact about these reptiles: what do iguanas eat?

Your pet iguana's diet is extremely important in keeping it healthy and thriving in life. Without the proper nutrition, your pet iguana will not live a long and prosperous life. In saying this, you must follow the below food list. If for somehow you can not provide the following foods for your pet iguana, please do not purchase this fragile reptile.

The first thing you must know about an iguana is that they are strictly herbivores. This means that they shall never be feed any meat, ever! Iguanas will eat most food that you give them, however only give them what is good for them. Therefore, feed your iguana collard and mustard greens (these can be given to your pet everyday). Further, only feed these types of fruits to your reptile on occasion: strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, bananas, apples and pears.

Also, your iguana will enjoy asparagus, lettuce and broccoli. When feeding these to your pet iguana, you must cut all foods into small pieces so your iguana can digest them easily. It also helps to put some water on the food as this does two things. First it gets some water into your pet iguana, as sometimes your iguana will not drink enough water. Second, it will make it easier for your iguana to chew. Follow the above food tips and you and your iguana should be just fine. Good luck!

How to Build an Iguana Cage - Do it Right the First Time

By Barry Stevens

Nowadays pet owners are moving towards iguanas, but why? Well iguanas are relaxing, chill pets that do not take up a whole lot of maintenance. However, you will need to put in time when you build your iguana its home. So the question is how to build an iguana cage? Read the following and find out.

First off you must have proper lighting and heating when you think about building your iguana's home. Lighting and heat plays such a huge role in your iguana's health. It is a must to find lights that provide enough UVA lighting in your iguana's cage.

This is a must because your iguana's skin and body will not thrive without this lighting. Further, it is highly recommended to place the UVA lighting at the top of your cage to get the most coverage. You can locate these lights at any of your local pet store.

Next you must have an iguana home that has hiding places and climbing apparatuses. It is recommended that you use rocks and shrubbery to achieve this. Your iguana needs its exercise and thus these things are a must.

Lastly, you will need to provide your iguana with a big enough space to live in. Think of a decent size closet and this is where you should aim to build your iguana's cage. If you do not know the exact dimensions you would like to build your cage, just make sure it is big enough for your iguana to roam.

Note that it will take some time for your iguana to get use to its new home. Try out new tricks and strategies to make your iguana feel comfortable and safe. By following the above tips you should be able to provide your pet iguana with a great home.

Iguana Facts - The Need to Know List

By Barry Stevens

If you own an pet iguana or plan on purchasing one, you must first become knowledgeable on iguanas. Knowing the facts is only half the battle to raising a nice, respectable pet, you must also be able to implement them.

So read the below facts on iguanas and see if you are up to the task in raising this great reptile. If you find out that an iguana might be too much for you, then simply do not get one! Further, if you already have this great pet, educate yourself a little bit. You must read below.

Iguana fact #1: These reptiles belong to the group Iguanidae, which comes from the group lizards. Further, this is where the name iguana comes from, if it was already not obvious enough. Though these reptile's limbs are short, they have enormous power in them and attached are their sharp claws. These claws are used for mainly climbing, but watch out as you could potentially get one of these claws dug into you.

Iguana fact #2: The reptile's tail is its defensive weapon. An iguana's tail is extremely powerful for its size and it will whip it around at high speeds if it feels threaten. The tails are also useful to the iguana when they swim, which iguana's love to do.

Iguana fact #3: Iguana males are much larger than their opposite sex.

Iguana fact #4: These reptiles are strictly herbivores, meaning that they shall never eat any meat. Iguanas love most green vegetables and fruits. Never feed your pet iguana any dog or cat food, a common mistake.

Iguana fact #5: These reptiles love to hide, therefore your cage should have hiding places for your pet.

Get use to the above facts and you will understand iguanas a little more. Remember if you plan on getting this reptile, you must learn about this amazing pet first. Good luck in raising your reptile!

Caring For Your Pet Land Hermit Crab

By Joan Fox

Caring for pet land hermit crab may be easier than you think. A ten-gallon aquarium, some sand and water is about all you will need. Even so, it is wise that you are researching the needs of this exotic animal, before you decide to purchase one as a pet. Being proactive in developing your knowledge will ensure you provide a safe and healthy environment that will make your pet happy.

You may not be aware but there are differences between a hermit crab and a land crab. While they basically have the same food, temperature and humidity requirements they need a little different setup in their homes.

Hermit crabs need sand or substrate that is 3-4 inches deep and a land crab requires one that is a little deeper. Land crabs also need more of an aqua-aquarium where as hermit crabs just require a terrarium type environment. Land crabs need an "island" of sand or substrate with a body of water, which could be provided in a dish that is deep enough for him to completely submerge himself into. Hermit crabs just require a shallow dish of water that is easy enough for them to climb out from.

So, you have decided on with exotic pet hermit crab you wish to own and have set up your aquarium with his needs in mind. Now what else do you want to put in the tank with them? Well, first you might consider other land crabs! Pet land hermit crabs are very social animals and enjoy the company of others. Many owners purchase a dozen at a time! You also need to provide an ample supply of shells.

Hermit land crabs do not create their shells and have to use abandoned shells of other creatures. You need to supply a variety of shells of different shapes and sizes and with different aperture size and shapes as well. If you have several of these exotic crabs, then you may witness a crab fight over a prize shell. If one of your pets is injured in such a fight, just remove him to a safe secluded area for him to recover.

Water is a key element in your pet crab's healthy life. Your pet crab require water to drink, bathe and breathe. These crabs breathe through gills and require water and humidity to be able to breathe. You should provide humidity levels between 70 and 80 percent and temperatures between 72 and 79 degrees. Temperatures below 72 degrees on a regular basis will cause stress or even death of your pet.

What do you feed your pet land hermit crab you ask? Well they prefer a healthy diet and you may find everything you need to feed him right in your kitchen! They love fruits, vegetables and even will eat fish and meats. Other options would be to feed them baby foods with fruits in them or dog and cat foods. Some things they eat in the wild are shredded leaf material and bits of bark - you can provide that as well, just be sure to wash and dry thoroughly before offering it to your pet. He is a messy eater! So, be sure to clear his tank of leftover food after he has eaten.

You might wonder why your pet is not very active during the day. That is because hermit land crabs are nocturnal and are more active during evening hours. With the use of moonlight bulbs in a dark area of your home you could adapt your pet to be active in the times you are awake to enjoy him.

Hermit land crabs have been known to live over 20 years in captivity. However, the average lifespan of your exotic pet is on average three to four years. You will be rewarded with years of enjoyment and entertainment from your pet crab if you provide him with his basic needs to keep him happy and healthy.

Hermit Crabs and Care - What to Do and How!

By Joan Fox

In order to give your hermit crabs the best care, it is necessary to know what you need their home to be like. The environment that you keep your crabs in has to be appreciated by them. To give your crabs the best care, they will need either a glass or plastic enclosure. You will want to put a wire top on the enclosure so they do not escape, they are great climbers.

Just like you, your new pet crab will get bored if he doesn't have plenty of room and things to do. To care for your pet, it is always nice to have a rather large enclosure and tons of things they can climb on. You can get sticks and logs for them climb all over. In the wild they climb trees and big logs.

Temperature is vital in the care of your crabs. The temperature has to stay just right because hermit crabs need a lot of humidity. The temperature needs to stay right around 72 degrees F. If it gets too much hotter than 72 degrees or too much lower than 72 degrees, there is a good chance that you may kill your hermit crab. For proper care of your crabs you need to make sure the temperature stays where it needs to be.

Try to make their home as much like the wild as you can. I would suggest putting some sea shells in their tank with them, definitely logs and things to climb on. Sand is always a great way to care for your crabs, it makes them feel like they are in the wild again. You can go to just about any pet store around and find sand to use for your crabs habitat, or crabitat if you will.

These exotic crabs need company. They love having friends to play with and socialize with just like you. You would be bored too, if stuck in a cage by yourself all the time. Well keep that in mind when you are trying to provide the best care for your crabs. Make sure you get friends. Just remember though, the more friends you have the more toys, hiding places, hermit crab shells, and food you will need. You will also need a larger tank for them and extra food. With all of these things you will be giving the best care for your crabs. A great way to care for your these crabs is to give them lots of places to hide. In the wild they like to hide under rocks and logs. So get them some little things they can hide under. It can be logs, rocks, little hideaway toys from a pet store, or something you make yourself. Your pet crabs will love it no matter what it is.

The best way you could possibly care for your crabs would be to think of what you would want if you were them. For proper care of hermit crabs you will need to make sure they have all of the following: Places to hide, toys or things they can climb on, logs, sticks, rocks, and even lego's work. Hermit crabs will need friends, sand, and shells to feel at home. The best care for your hermit crabs will be if you have all of this and the proper food, heating, and habitat. If you have all of this, then you are on the right track to giving the best care for your crabs that you can.

A Hermit Crab Primer - Information on the Basics of Caring For Your Crustacean

By Joan Fox

So you want a crustacean? You do. Well, you are making a good choice. You will learn a lot, and laugh a lot with this strange little friend. He is exotic and conversational, and you've heard that they are very good pets. Right now you might be sitting, looking at your new found friend, and wondering what you should do first. This little creature has needs, and this article will answer many of the needs in a nutshell.

TEMPERATURE

There are strict guidelines about the water you have in your tank. Your crab is quite sensitive to temperature changes. Specifically, he likes to be at 72 degrees Fahrenheit, he could easily die if left in water that's too cold. On the other hand you do not want to cause him sunburn. You will need to spray him with water now and then so that he doesn't become dehydrated. You'd do best to keep him/them in bright light but not direct light. Stay far, far away from chlorine. There is also the problem of chemicals in the environment such as metal dishes that possibly have soap on them. Most of all, do not stress these poor little creatures out. He's already dealt with quite a lot of change in his life. If there is a musty, unpleasant odor coming from his tank, he's overheated. He can also discharge a brown liquid, which is most unattractive. Oh, I almost forgot. He does need a heater, as well.

HUMIDITY

Coupled with the correct temperature there is the matter of humidity. Crustaceans love it when the humidity is at least 70%. You needn't get overly upset about it and measure every day, but just try to keep his environment nice and tropical. You might want to spring for a hygrometer and thermometer so that you always know if the environment in healthy or not.

In a kind of funny way, your crabs love to bury themselves in the sand at the bottom of the tank. It's what they do when they are particularly overwhelmed, sort of like pulling the covers over your head in bed when you're scared. So, keep enough bottom material (can be sand or some other similar bottom material to let him feel covered but not buried completely). You should clean the tank monthly. Clean out the ground material and the tank itself. Use no soap. This makes it fresh from old food from that has dropped down into the water while he ate.

ADJUSTMENTS

After you bring your new pet home there some adjustments to make. First he needs so be bathed. I know, so strange for a water creature. Anyway keep rinsing him off until the water and shell appear clear. Lots of unwanted creatures can be crawling up in that shell. Do NOT use soap.

This is a high stress time for the crabs. When you bring them home to others, keep him alone for awhile - at least a week and maybe two. Crabs are used to being with other hermit crabs. In fact, in the wild they may hang out in their own 100 crab colony. They play and fight and bully the smaller ones.

This is the time you need to pick out a new shell for him (about 1/3 bigger than the shell he presently inhabits) and feed him a feast and clean water in his new crabarian. The substrate in the tank ought to be 2-3X the height of the largest crab in the bunch. Remember stress is the worst thing for everyone, including your new pet. When he does come out to check things out he will appear to be overeating. That is because, like burrowing mammals they never think they'll find good food again so they overindulge while the going is good. They will calm down as soon as they have somewhat of a routine.

If, by chance your new pet friend drops a leg or two, it's a signal that his well-being is compromised. Unfortunately, he is not molting, which is natural. He will drop appendages when he doesn't feel well. One claw dropping is not life threatening, but if the other claw drops off there is little you can do to save him.

Making The Hermit Crab Habitat - Setting Up His Tank

By Joan Fox

Hermit crabs aren't overly fussy about their surroundings except to have the environment clean and warm. Unless you live in a tropical environment, you will need a heater. Crabs don't need elaborate surroundings, but you should make what surroundings she has into something familiar and comforting - we're looking for a simple tropical paradise here. Read on to learn about the essentials.

So you have your glass or plastic tank that's pretty tall. Our crab friends really like to escape so you'll need a cover over the top. Plexiglas is a good choice.

There often are "Hermit Crab Kits" in some pet stores. Steer clear of them as they are not large enough for a suitable home. A proper figure for the size of a tank is about 10 gallons, but in this case, the bigger the better. Your crab will want you to supply him some friendly company. They are very social beings. And it is not unusual to find them all piled on top of each other in the wild.

If you decide that you want the bottom to have common sand, then you might want to dry and bake it, which will sterilize it for a nice fresh substrate. Aside from sand, you might like something more unusual. Some of these are made for reptiles, but work well for crabs, as well. The first is coconut fiber-based bedding. The fiber is ground so finely it looks like soil. It's a great burrowing medium. You can also consider crushed coral. What you want to avoid are gravel and wood shavings.

Again, let me emphasize how important proper humidity is. Remember they do breathe through gills. If the humidity is too low, the crab will surely die of suffocation. What you can do is just give her the water dish which can increase the humidity in her tank. You can also put a natural sea sponge in the dish as well. The sponge alone holds a lot of water. It also has a large surface area to create humidity. It may or may not be a great idea as the sponge can promote bacterial issues that smell likes sulphur - very unpleasant. If that happens I'm certain you will want to take another route and put marbles in the water dish. If you decide to do that and a small crab falls into the water dish, he will have something to fall on and grab onto.

As important as humidity and temperature are toys to keep your pets busy climbing. In the wild they climb up on rocks to eat. You don't have to be fancy with this either. If you have broken pottery that is not painted, clam shells, rocks, anything that hasn't been treated can serve as a hiding place. Make sure your pet friend can get out of any of her toys. They do have a sense of humor, and they play a great deal of the time. Remember to keep that top on because if they have these toys they will climb up and out of the tank. Those plastic plants you put in your fish tank? Well, they work well, too. Just make certain that the crab is not eating the plastic as it will kill him.

There should be variety in their diet. They adore coconut shavings, and also eat peanut butter, hard-boiled eggs and egg shells. Be aware of giving them anything that may have been sprayed with a pesticide. Buy organic fruits and vegetables just to be sure that you are not poisoning your friend. Remember, too, that salt water is where they bathe. Fresh water is what they drink.

A very good rule of thumb is that if you are not positively sure that what you are giving your pet is healthy, ask someone who knows. Hermit crabs are very sensitive to additives of any kind. Things you wouldn't even imagine. If you want to give her some meat, make sure that meat hasn't been marinated. It's a better bet to give her raw meat, and not worry about what condiments have been added.
Just like nearly all pets, try to avoid buying or using anything from the pet store. They are usually fairly toxic and the crab specimens are usually sluggish and dirty. You can order good, healthy crabs and stick to the organic regimen, and all will be well.

What to Know Before Buying a Chinchilla House

By Lindsey Perkins

Are you planning to get a pet chinchilla? If yes then let me tell you that before you go ahead and buy a pet for yourself you need to do a thorough research about their behavior and what are their basic needs because only if you understand them you will be able to take care of them and build a house for them.

You might not be aware but houses are really important for animals because they feel comfortable and relaxed when they are in their houses. If you are going to pet a chinchilla you should build or buy a chinchilla house where your pet will stay.

A chinchilla house is very different from houses for other pets because such houses are made as per the requirements and characteristics of the animal.

Chinchillas are native of South America and found in Andes. Since they are rodents from mountainous region they are expert jumpers and move quickly from one place to another. Hence, you need to understand that chinchilla house has to be big in size because it should have ample space for the chinchilla to move inside freely. If you buy smaller house than your pet will not lead a happy life and soon you will start hearing cries of your pet indicating that he or she is not happy.

It is a good idea to have some playing accessories inside chinchilla house because these rodents are very active and they are constantly on the move. Playing items like wheels, swings and ramps will give them something to remain busy and they will enjoy jumping on the wheels and swings that you have installed for them. Additionally, you need to make sure that the house does not have wire mesh flooring as that can injure your chinchilla and it will be tough for you to clean up the floor on regular basis.

Benefits of the Timed Cat Food Dispenser

By Thad Evans

If you are an avid pet lover, then one of the best things that you can purchase is a timed cat food dispenser as these really handy to have around the home. Raising a cat can really be a rewarding experience but you also need to ensure that they are well taken care of. This means that they will need to have regular meals so that they can grow up to become healthy.

Sometimes life can be rather unpredictable as you simply never know when your boss might call you in to stay extra late or when they might surprise you with a business meeting.

No matter what gets thrown your way, your cat will still need to be fed as the last thing you want is for them to go hungry. This is where using an automatic cat feeder is so beneficial as this device can automate this task.

Depending on which model you purchase, all you need to do is program it accordingly so that it dispenses food at certain intervals throughout the day. This means that even if no one is at home to feed your cat, these feeders will take care of it for you. However, keep in mind that these still need to be regularly maintained as the container will need to have sufficient food.

Another added benefit to these cat feeders is that they can even help to prevent animal obesity which is a growing concern these days. Just like in humans, being overweight can cause serious health problems for cats which is something that you definitely probably do not want. Therefore, purchasing one of these devices for yourself is probably the best investment that you can make.

Cat Panting and Mouth Issues

By Chris Weber

My cat panting issues really worried me to an extreme level. Some say I worry too much about my cats, but I am always looking into their safety and health. I could not live with myself if one of my cats got sick and passed away under my watch. I believe we all have a certain level of demands put on us as pet owners.

It all started the day I just got back from my four day vacation. I was away and out of the house for four days straight, so my cat was left alone. I hate leaving my cat alone, but I understand cats are descent with being left alone. I got home and started to relax and start to watch the television.

I looked down at my cat and noticed that she was sniffing the floor in sort of a funny matter. She would smell the carpet and when she looked back up, her mouth was hanging open. When her mouth was hanging open it seemed as if the cat was unable to close the mouth on her own. This was not only happening once, but around every ten minutes. She would hold her mouth open and pant in such a weird manner.

I wondered to myself what the heck to do. I searched online and of course there was no information. I kept searching for information and was unable to find anything. My husband talked me into just forgetting about it because she was eating and drinking just fine. To this exact day, she still does this and we still wonder what the answer is for this situation she enacts.

The Purrfect Pet - RagDoll Cats and Kittens

By Susie Smyth

The RagDoll Cat breed came about from the offspring of a semi-feral white Persian female whom was injured when hit by a car and bred to a male Birman Cat. The controversy is that the "breed" relaxes completely when picked up or held. The resulting floppy "RagDoll" appearance gives the breed its name.

Some believe that this trait was passed on from the injured female, whom may have suffered nerve damage, others disagree stating that it is not genetically possible. Little is known as to why these felines are unique in so many ways.

The RagDoll is similar in appearance to the Birman, except for the heavier body build and lack of tell tale white "gloves".

Varieties include the Bicolor RagDoll, with a pale body, dark markings on the mask, ears, and tails (seal, chocolate, blue or lilac), and a white underside. Points refers to points of their features such as ears, nose, paws and tail. Colorpoints have points in the same colors and Mitted RagDolls are the same as Colorpoint but with white front paws. Colors include chocolate, seal with varying shades of brown, blue (which is shades of grey) and lilac which is more a rosy shade of beige. Some can be cream, blue/cream or flame (cream that is more reddish). The rare Mink RagDolls have their coloring at birth, whereas the others are usually born white

The cats fur is full and long, plush, but is not as long as many of the long haired breeds. They do not have an undercoat which makes for less shedding as well as easy maintenance and grooming. Their bodies are long and solid, although they go limp when picked up. They have medium legs, large round paws, and a long, medium tail. The head is a rounded wedge shape with a medium nose, fully developed cheeks, and small, round, mostly blue eyes, although green, green/blue and aqua are common in the mink RagDolls and the straight colored RagDolls can often have nonmatching eye colors. Ears are medium, rounded at the tips and tufted. These are large cats, with males often exceeding 20 plus pounds.

These Cats have an extremely docile temperament, slow to mature and don't reach full maturity until 3 to 4 years of age. Perhaps that is why they remain quite playful well beyond the kitten stages. They are "lovers", not fighters and very trusting of others that they may not recognize danger. Best suited to the indoors, the RagDoll has an extremely high tolerance to pain so that injuries can go unnoticed. These big fluffy cats are calm and like tranquility. They also like dogs, particularly large dogs. They get along well with other household pets and make wonderful pets for children. They are often described as the "puppy cat" in that they will follow one around much like a puppy. They are also very trainable.

RagDolls are big, sweet tempered, family oriented cats, making them the purrfect pet for many homes.

Cats "pawsitively" have enriched my life. Owning an Equestrian Center allows me to have more cats than what would be the norm for homes, as I claim some are "working barn cats", giving me the excuse to take a few more in and keeping the many that are "drop offs". However, as responsible pet owners we should strive to learn as much about the animals whom well being and lives are dependent on us.

Fun Ways to Celebrate Valentine's Day With Your Pet Dog

By Jim Witt

February is the month of love. Celebrate this Valentine's Day by dressing up your beloved canine. There are many ways to allow your dog to celebrate this wonderful Valentine season:

1. Dress your canine friend up in a Valentine's Day costume. Many stores sell dog costumes for holidays. Find a cupid costume with a halo headband and cute wings to fit across your dog's back.

2. Buy a Valentine's Day dog collar. Holiday dog collars are always a wonderful option for celebrating the holiday. Valentine's Day collars are fun and will be sure to get some attention.

There are a lot of options available for Valentine's Day collars. The most popular Valentine's Day collars are designs with hearts, both large and small. Other options are sweethearts, roses, flowers, and the combination of the color red and pink.

3. Find a fun valentine's outfit online or at a dog apparel store. There are many websites that cater to canine clothes for holiday occasions. Valentine themed apparel can spice up any Valentine's Day.

4. Dressing your dog in anything that is red or pink can pull off the Valentine theme. Find a cute red hat to show off your cute dog on Valentine's Day. Or you could paint their toenails pink for the occasion.

5. Handmade items can be a nice touch on Valentine's Day. Knit your dog a pink and red sweater to wear on the cold mornings. There are a lot of crafty clothing articles or accessories you can make for your dog, such as hats, sweaters, or shirts.

Show off your cute canine this Valentine's Day. Your family and friends will love to see your dog dressed up in pink and red to celebrate. Whether you choose to make a handmade hat, or purchase a beautiful Valentine's Day dog collar, your dog will have fun this holiday.

Chihuahua History and Characteristics

By Georgios Kalarchakis

The origins of the Chihuahua are uncertain. They probably came to Mexico by the Chinese, but is also possible to be originated from dogs of the Aztecs, including the race Techichi. The Chihuahua was the favourite animal of the Aztec, who used to eat them as sacred food, also they where sacrificing them to the gods and believed that Chihuahuas brought good luck at home.

The Chihuahua is considered to have come to Spain by Spanish conquerors. Reproduction of the Chihuahua first started in the United States in the nineteenth century. Soon people recognized the value of this race. It is the oldest race in America and arrived in Europe after the Second World War.

The Chihuahua is the smallest of all breeds. Their height ranges from 16 to 20 cm and are weighing from one to three and a half pounds. It has a tiny fine skeleton, a head that is round and erected ears. Their smooth coat is composed of shiny, soft hair, little head and ears. Their hair is long, soft and slightly curly. There are a variety of colours in their hair like amber, white, brown and black. Their coat can be one colour or more and they could have spots.

Each Chihuahua has a unique personality. It's cute, active and shows human expressions. This tiny companion is deeply devoted and loyal. It is bold, fearless and very protective of its owner. They enjoy stealing all the attention. They are cautious in the presence of foreigners and are excellent keepers. This breed is not suitable for young children and does not coexist easily with other pets.

What you should know before buying a Chihuahua: It some times develops eye problems and heart disease. The Chihuahua can not live in cold climate and must be protected when it comes out. It is difficult to train and requires patience and stability. Socialization is very important and because of this it must begin early and be intensive and extensive.