Time to Clean the Fish Tank? Here Are Some Tips

By Greg Trefter

So, you have an aquarium that is in need of a good spring cleaning, but you don't know exactly how to go about it? Should you simply scrap the mess and start over? Should you try cleaning is without emptying it first? The answer is that tearing it down and completely starting over will remove the bacterial colonies produced in the aquarium that are beneficial to helping eliminate wastes. Unless the tank is extremely terrible, starting over should not be your first option; it should be a last resort.
 
You will need to have an algae scraper or pad, a razor blade (plastic for an acrylic tank), some bleach, a water siphon, a bucket, some lime remover and glass cleaner made specifically for aquariums, a filter media and a filter brush, some old bath towels and paper towels.

You should start with the glass, move to the decorations such as rocks and plants and then clean the gravel. You should then move on to the outside of the glass and the fixtures and finish by cleaning or replacing the filter.

Give the glass a thorough cleaning on the inside using the algae pad. You can find a large selection of scrapers and pads for algae; from a scrubber with a long handle to magnetic scrubs. The small magnetic scrubs are a personal favorite, but just about any algae pad will do the job. You must purchase the algae pads at a pet store as opposed to buying one from the house wares department of your local store. They look just about the same, but the house wares pads can contain harmful chemicals or soap which could be lethal to fish. If the algae is really stubborn you will need to scrape it with the razor blade or plastic blade.

After you have thoroughly cleaned the glass, remove the decorations, artificial plants and rocks that have a significant build-up of algae on them. Do not use detergents or soaps when cleaning them. Although you might think you've completely removed the soap, there could and most probably would still be some residue. You can scrub them with the algae scrubber or scrape them clean, but for really tough problems you can use a 10% solution of bleach. Soak them for about 15 minutes and then scrub off the remaining residue. Rinse them well in running water and allow them to dry fully. Make sure the bucket you use has never held any type of detergent or soap. Vacuum the gravel while the other decorations are out of the tank.

Use a water siphon to vacuum away any debris in the gravel. You can choose from a variety of siphons and all of them work in very much the same manner. If you want to eliminate the need for a bucket, try the Python. There are also adapters that will allow you to filter the siphoned water back into the tank.

Be careful when using glass and lime cleaners as they may contain ammonia which is toxic to the fish. A standard lime cleaner is even worse. Use vinegar whenever possible or cleaners that have been specifically designed for aquarium cleaning. Always rinse thoroughly and leave nothing to chance.

If you want to clean the filter, you must wait a couple of weeks to do it. From the cleaning you already completed you have disturbed the beneficial algae and bacteria colonies on the decorations, gravel and plants. You haven't completely destroyed the eco system because the filter will still contain some of these beneficial bacteria. Simply allow the filter to run for a couple of weeks to restore the balance. Then you can clean it. If the filter is older than three weeks, replace it.

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5 Betta Fish Facts For the Successful Owner

By T L Gallamore

Betta fish are becoming a growing popular pet in America. With their vibrant colors, uniquely shaped fins, and interactive personalities, it isn't much of a surprise why. Welcome, inquisitive Betta owner, to five fun Betta fish facts. This article should serve as a useful mini guide you raising a thriving pet.
 
1) Personality: interaction is one of the most commonly overlooked aspects to owning a Betta fish. You may not know, but this species is particularly renowned for the fact that each individual fish can develop its own personality.

Some let you pet them, some jump up for food, most will flip out when they see you going for the food container, others can be trained to do small tricks such as jumping through a ring, others all of the above.

2) Bettas need lots of space: Despite the inhumane keeping of these fish in small flower vases, they are like any other creature and that they need space to exercise and thrive. My advice is to buy the largest fish tank or container that your budget and living conditions will allow for. A single Betta fish seems to do especially well if given a 5 to 10 gallon tank to live in.

3) What to feed your Betta: When it comes to Betta fish facts regarding food you've got a few options. First up are live foods, these are generally tasty and your Betta will gobble them down, but really should only be given as a snack. This is because live foods are high in protein and fats, but low in other nutrients essential to a balanced diet. I recommend using pellets for two reasons. First of all, they offer an all-around healthy meal. Second, they are easy to measure out because each pellet is around the same size.

4) How much to feed: When it comes to feeding time, most companies put out some different "Betta fish facts" than the ones you should really be following. In the interest of selling as many bottles of food as possible, most companies are going to give you recommendations that are actually overfeeding your pet. The best scene schedule I've found is to give two pellets in the morning and two at night.

5) Sick Betta fish: Because they are very susceptible to imbalances in water chemical levels and parasite borne illnesses, is important to know the warning signs of a sick fish. The most common symptoms involve discoloration, streets around the gills, white spots on the fins or body, and extreme lethargy.

When becoming a Betta fish owner is important to have all the information you need to succeed.

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3 Essential Fish Tank Supplies That You Need

By Helen Silva

If you have decided that you need to have a brand-new fish tank in your home, you are going to soon realize that you will need a vast amounts of supplies. These are things that you simply need to have the keep your aquarium running at optimal levels. Here are a few suggestions on what you should have in order to make your fish, and your life, as easy as possible.
 
People just starting out you not realize that owning an aquarium can be quite a chore.

People will go to the store thinking that they will simply pick up one of those cute little bowls, throw their fish and it, and that they are done. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The first supplies that you will need for your brand-new fish tank are lighting systems, water pumps, air pumps, water filters, and an assortment of cleaning equipment. Depending upon the size and shape of the tank issue have purchased, you may need to buy additional cleaning utilities to get the job done right.

The size of your fish tank is also an important consideration. More than likely, you will want to put this on top of a stand. There are many varieties that are available including those that are made of metal and wood. Plastic is usually not the material of choice because of the enormous amount of weight that tanks can typically hold due to the water.

When choosing fish, whether they are saltwater or freshwater, you need to also have a fish tank hood on top of this water vessel. The reason is that some of the fish that you purchase will like to jump. Until they are conditioned properly by having a lid over their container, they may jump out onto the floor and die.

One of the most important things that you can purchase is a quality water filter and pump. This will make sure that the waste that the fish create on a regular basis is filtered out and that they are not constantly inundated with their own sewage. It is also a good idea to use a water testing kit to make sure that the ionization level within your tank is at optimal levels.

Finally, once all of your aquatic buddies are in the water, you will want to turn on the tank light and see what you are new and amazing fish container now displays. Aquariums are one of the most beautiful additions that anyone can make to their home, however, without the right fish tank supplies, it may become problematic.

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What Are the Important Supplements For Leopard Geckos?

By Jo S. Morris

Leopard geckos have a few needs that are totally non-negotiable: they need a properly temperature-regulated environment with both a warm and a cooler area; they need appropriate food, and they need the right supplements specifically for leopard geckos. All three are critical to the health, happiness and longevity of your leopard, but in this article it is the latter of the three - supplements - that is up for discussion.
 
So what are the important supplements for leopard geckos in captivity? Here is what they need:

Calcium

Leopard geckos in the wild eat a varied diet of insects and rodents, and those insects and rodents will themselves have eaten a varied diet up until they are caught and eaten. That adds up to a pretty nutritious diet for the wild leo, and one of its key features is a good ratio of calcium to phosphorus. That's very important, as a diet with a ratio of calcium to phosphorus that is weighted in favor of phosphorus will result in not enough calcium being absorbed. This puts them at risk of metabolic bone disease. Unfortunately, most common feeder insects fed to captive leos have a bad ratio of calcium to phosphorus, and that's why a supplement is required.

The best way to feed your leopard a calcium supplement is to gut load its feeder insects with a high-calcium diet. Blend together a sauce made from any of: dandelion greens; watercress; collard greens; mustard greens, and/or endive. Be sure to include both the juice and the pulp. Feed this to the feeder insects during the period 24-48 hours prior to feeding them to your leopard.

Vitamin D3

Leopard geckos in the wild, for obvious reasons, get all the sun (and hence all the vitamin D3) they need. Kept indoors as a pet however, they don't get any sun at all, and that's why a vitamin D3 supplement is needed. A vitamin D3 supplement can be given as part of a multivitamin supplement (see below for how to administer this).

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is another dietary essential for these geckos, and again yours won't get enough of it unless you specifically take steps to ensure that it gets a supplement. An insufficiency of vitamin A can cause serious eye problems, so it's definitely not one to skip.

It's possible to supplement a leopard gecko's diet with vitamin A directly but a better alternative is to supplement it with beta carotene, which it can metabolize into vitamin A.

You won't find it difficult to find a specially formulated reptile multivitamin powder containing both beta carotene and vitamin D3. While a calcium supplement should be given to your leo via gut loading each and every mealtime, the multivitamin should be given only about once every two weeks. The easiest way to give it is to dust it onto feeder insects by putting them in a plastic bag with the powder and giving the bag a shake.

Knowing the right supplements for leopard geckos and giving them the appropriate food and correct temperature will mean healthy and happy leopards to care for.

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How to Avoid Leopard Gecko Health Issues

By Jo S. Morris

It'd be pretty irresponsible to own a pet, no matter what kind, and not take it to a vet when it's required. Sometimes things get serious enough that you need expert help, and that's where vets come in. Still, wouldn't you rather avoid leopard gecko health issues as much as possible by doing what you can before they arise?
 
Here's how to do what you can to avoid health problems with your leo:

Think seriously about sand

Do you know how many hits you get on Google if you search for "leopard gecko" and "impaction"? You get 22,600 - that represents a lot of people concerned about this all-too-common health problem.

If you didn't already know, sand impaction is where a leopard gecko eats sand and it gets stuck in their digestive system. This causes pain, bloating, and eventually (if the leo is unable to pass the sand and doesn't receive treatment) death.

So how do you avoid your leo developing sand impaction? Here is the formula:

- If possible, avoid putting sand in your leo's habitat altogether. There are plenty of other substrates to choose from, such as slate tile or coconut husk.

- If you put sand in your leo's tank, use only a fine 'play sand' (this is a screened and washed sand with a fine, rounded grain).

- Don't put juvenile leopard geckos on a sand substrate - wait until they are at least 5-6 months old.

- Supply plenty of dietary calcium. Leos are more prone to eating when they feel calcium deficient, so provide them with a bowl of calcium powder, gut load feeder insects with food containing calcium, dust feeder insects with more calcium powder, and consider switching to a feeder insect that naturally contains more calcium (such as silkworms).

Choose food carefully

Strange as it may sound, obesity is another common health issue with leopard geckos.

To avoid obesity problems, don't feed your adult leo a diet comprised only of worms, as these tend to be fatty compared with crickets and roaches. Instead, alternate between feeder insect types every 3-6 months.

Also, don't feed your leo more than 3 times per week, and when you feed it don't give it more feeder insects than it can eat in 15 minutes.

Ensure there's adequate heat

Leopard geckos need a high temperature of around 90 degrees Fahrenheit in their environment. This is necessary for all kinds of reasons, but health-wise there are two important ones: to aid digestion, and to maintain a properly-functioning immune system.

Remember that you must carefully and accurately measure the heat in your leo's tank so that you can be sure that it's the correct temperature. Use an infrared temperature gun (search the web for "temp gun")) to precisely measure substrate surface temperatures - mercury thermometers may not give you an accurate reading unless they are positioned exactly.

A word of advice here: The vet you choose must have knowledge of reptile care in order to be able to advise on any leopard gecko health issues.

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Creating a Natural Leopard Geckos Habitat

By Jo S. Morris

When you're trying to give a leopard gecko a home in captivity where it'll be happy and healthy, the starting point should of course always be to think about its habitat in the wild. In the wild, the leopard geckos habitat is the desert areas of Afghanistan, India and Pakistan.
 
Does this mean that every leopard gecko terrarium should contain sand? Well, no. A common mistake that people make is to hear that these geckos live in desert regions in the wild and to think "desert = sand

It's hard to shake the visual association of the word 'desert' with 'endless shifting sand dunes,' but the fact is that only about 20% of the areas of the world that are classified as deserts are covered in sand. 'Desert' means 'dry,' but it does not necessarily mean 'sandy,' and the desert areas where leopard geckos live in Asia are characterized more by rocks and grasses than by sand.

This is probably the major reason why sand remains a popular substrate for the bottom of the leopard geckos terrariums, despite its known health risks. Then again, it's not the only reason: many leo owners would probably still prefer to use a sand substrate even if they knew it wasn't a natural environment just because it looks good. It's hard not to have a little sympathy with this position, because you could argue that it doesn't matter whether a pet's environment in captivity is natural, so long as the pet is happy living in it. After all, what's 'natural' about human beings living in cities?

However, for those who want to approximate a natural environment for their leo without sacrificing looks, there are two other options worthy of consideration:

1. Slate Tile

A slate tile in the bottom of you leo's terrarium looks good, is very easy to clean, and approximates a rocky habitat in the wild pretty well. If you want to, buy a selection of smaller tiles in different colors and patterns and mix-n-match them to create a more interesting visual. Add fake rock features and plants for an even more authentic look.

2. The 'Full Natural'

For those with the time and the will, the five-star habitat option for leopard gecko owners is something that truly replicates the leo's home in the wild. Start with a large tank, at least 20 gallons (ideally 40 gallons) for one leopard gecko - this is necessary, as creating a natural environment means more of the floor space is covered, meaning less space for your leo to run around on. Put a one-inch layer of a mixture of equal parts peat moss, potting soil and play sand into the bottom of the tank as drainage for the plants. Then add some plants (you'll be able to find lists of plants which are reptile-safe on the internet). Next put in a layer of sand/soil mix, then add rocks, logs, and finally fill any gaps with more play sand.

(NB: If you haven't heard of it before, 'play sand' is a washed sand that's produced for children's sandpits. Because it's clean and very fine it greatly reduces risks associated with geckos ingesting it, particularly when it's used sparingly.)

Either one of these two suggestions is going to give your leopard geckos habitat one that is worthy of this amazing lizard.

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Iguanas Habitat - Can You Do it Right Now?

By Barry Stevens

Do you think you are ready to own a pet iguana? Well if you can provide a great home for your pet, then you are in luck. An Iguanas habitat is one of the most important aspects in regards to raising a healthy and thriving iguana. Your iguana's home must have three things.
 
First, you must provide your iguana with correct lighting. Second, you must give your iguana some "play" time. And lastly you must have a clean home. Read below to get more in depth with these three factors.

Proper lighting and heating plays such a huge role in your iguana's health. You will need to find lights that provide adequate UVA lighting. This is necessary because your iguana's skin will not be healthy without this lighting. Further, place the lighting at the top of your cage or home to get the most coverage possible. You can find these lights at any of your local pet stores.

Your iguana needs "play" time. What this means is that you need to provide your iguana with climbing apparatuses and hiding places. This is how your iguana gets its exercise and how it can hide from the outside world. I recommend using rocks and shrubbery.

You MUST keep your iguana's home clean! Your iguana will get sick if you do not pick up after it. Clean all of its dropping and dispose of old food and water.

If you follow these three key steps, you will see a healthy pet iguana! Remember that you must provide a great cage, so go out and do it!

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What Do Iguanas Eat? Things You Need to Know

By Barry Stevens

Are you thinking of getting a pet iguana? Well before you actually go to the pet store and buy one of these loving creatures, you first must know one important fact about these reptiles: what do iguanas eat?
 
Your pet iguana's diet is extremely important in keeping it healthy and thriving in life. Without the proper nutrition, your pet iguana will not live a long and prosperous life. In saying this, you must follow the below food list. If for somehow you can not provide the following foods for your pet iguana, please do not purchase this fragile reptile.

The first thing you must know about an iguana is that they are strictly herbivores. This means that they shall never be feed any meat, ever! Iguanas will eat most food that you give them, however only give them what is good for them. Therefore, feed your iguana collard and mustard greens (these can be given to your pet everyday). Further, only feed these types of fruits to your reptile on occasion: strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, bananas, apples and pears.

Also, your iguana will enjoy asparagus, lettuce and broccoli. When feeding these to your pet iguana, you must cut all foods into small pieces so your iguana can digest them easily. It also helps to put some water on the food as this does two things. First it gets some water into your pet iguana, as sometimes your iguana will not drink enough water. Second, it will make it easier for your iguana to chew. Follow the above food tips and you and your iguana should be just fine. Good luck!

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How to Build an Iguana Cage - Do it Right the First Time

By Barry Stevens

Nowadays pet owners are moving towards iguanas, but why? Well iguanas are relaxing, chill pets that do not take up a whole lot of maintenance. However, you will need to put in time when you build your iguana its home. So the question is how to build an iguana cage? Read the following and find out.
 
First off you must have proper lighting and heating when you think about building your iguana's home. Lighting and heat plays such a huge role in your iguana's health. It is a must to find lights that provide enough UVA lighting in your iguana's cage.

This is a must because your iguana's skin and body will not thrive without this lighting. Further, it is highly recommended to place the UVA lighting at the top of your cage to get the most coverage. You can locate these lights at any of your local pet store.

Next you must have an iguana home that has hiding places and climbing apparatuses. It is recommended that you use rocks and shrubbery to achieve this. Your iguana needs its exercise and thus these things are a must.

Lastly, you will need to provide your iguana with a big enough space to live in. Think of a decent size closet and this is where you should aim to build your iguana's cage. If you do not know the exact dimensions you would like to build your cage, just make sure it is big enough for your iguana to roam.

Note that it will take some time for your iguana to get use to its new home. Try out new tricks and strategies to make your iguana feel comfortable and safe. By following the above tips you should be able to provide your pet iguana with a great home.

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Iguana Facts - The Need to Know List

By Barry Stevens

If you own an pet iguana or plan on purchasing one, you must first become knowledgeable on iguanas. Knowing the facts is only half the battle to raising a nice, respectable pet, you must also be able to implement them.
 
So read the below facts on iguanas and see if you are up to the task in raising this great reptile. If you find out that an iguana might be too much for you, then simply do not get one! Further, if you already have this great pet, educate yourself a little bit. You must read below.

Iguana fact #1: These reptiles belong to the group Iguanidae, which comes from the group lizards. Further, this is where the name iguana comes from, if it was already not obvious enough. Though these reptile's limbs are short, they have enormous power in them and attached are their sharp claws. These claws are used for mainly climbing, but watch out as you could potentially get one of these claws dug into you.

Iguana fact #2: The reptile's tail is its defensive weapon. An iguana's tail is extremely powerful for its size and it will whip it around at high speeds if it feels threaten. The tails are also useful to the iguana when they swim, which iguana's love to do.

Iguana fact #3: Iguana males are much larger than their opposite sex.

Iguana fact #4: These reptiles are strictly herbivores, meaning that they shall never eat any meat. Iguanas love most green vegetables and fruits. Never feed your pet iguana any dog or cat food, a common mistake.

Iguana fact #5: These reptiles love to hide, therefore your cage should have hiding places for your pet.

Get use to the above facts and you will understand iguanas a little more. Remember if you plan on getting this reptile, you must learn about this amazing pet first. Good luck in raising your reptile!

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